Product Review: Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant & Dermalogica Ultimate Buffing Cloth

This is a review of the Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant and the Dermalogica Ultimate Buffing Cloth.

Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant

The Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant is described as "Gentle, daily use exfoliating powder for all skin conditions. Unique Rice-based powder formula activates upon contact with water, releasing Papain, Salicylic Acid and Rice Enzymes that micro-exfoliate dead cells, instantly leaving skin smoother and brighter. Our unique Skin Brightening Complex helps to balance uneven skin pigmentation while a super-soothing blend of Green Tea, Ginkgo and Colloidal Oatmeal helps to calm the skin, leaving it extraordinarily clear and refreshed. Gentle enough to use on a daily basis. Not recommended for users of medically-prescribed exfoliation products. Formulated without artificial fragrances and colors."

Price: $52 for 2.6oz

This may seem a bit pricy but for a professional line product it's a great price. Since this product is concentrated, you will use a lot less product. You will be using about a ½ a teaspoon each time so this product should last you a long time. Also, if you're exfoliating properly each day, you will use less moisturizer because it will be able to penetrate more easily.

Formula

This formula is a rice-based formula and it's activated by water. I really like the gentle exfoliating it provides although some people that have to have that super-abrasive feeling when they exfoliate might need something different.

The salycilic in this product is going to shed cells and get inside your pores and clean them out as well as eat any surface oils. Say goodbye to those breakouts because this ingredient will shed cells over microcomodones(the start of zits) and prevent breakouts. The papain in this product is going to lighten hyperpigmentation by shedding the skin on dark spots. The papain will help even your skin tone.

This product aslo contains Green Tea, Ginkgo and Colloidal Oatmeal which is a super-soothing blend to calm the skin.

This is does not just exfoliate our skin but treats your skin at the same time. What an amazing combination of ingredients.

Results

I do think this product adequately exfoliates and does make your skin soft and smooth. I've also noticed my face is completely rid of all oil after exfoliating and I am less oily throughout the day. I do use significantly less moisturizer when exfoliating with this product every day.

Where To Buy

Ulta, Sephora or facial clinics that carry the line such as Massage Retreats

Overall Assessment

This product provides adequate exfoliating, is gentle enough to use every day and also has added benefits. It's also great for any skin type. I do think that people that need to have that abrasive feeling need something different but then they couldn't exfoliate every day and they wouldn't get these great benefits so I'd give it a 9 out of 10.

Dermalogica Ultimate Buffing Cloth

The Dermalogica Ultimate Buffing Cloth is described as "A hygienic exfoliating cloth to buff and polish the body to silky perfection. Use with Conditioning Body Wash to clean and exfoliate rough, dull skin in even the most hard-to-reach areas. Perfectly-sized for scrubbing the back and keeping skin super smooth. Made from extra-durable Nylon fiber that rinses clean and dries quickly."

Price: $15

This is certainly a great price for a product that lasts forever and is hygenic. The loofas I've had do not last long enough and I probably buy a few a year. This has so many uses and benefits it's definitely a steal for $15.

Product Details

The buffing cloth is super-exfoliating and leaves your body feeling soft and smooth. This is going to lead to better moisture absorption and will also prevent ingrown hairs and breakouts. You can also use it to exfoliate your ears and behind your ears. It's large enough to reach around your back and the nylon fiber is durable. This is quick drying so no need to worry about bacteria growth and it's easier then to bring with you when you travel or to the gym.

Results

I've noticed a drastic decrease in ingrown hairs that I'd get from waxing. Now I don't get any at all. The exfoliating results prevent them and I'm soft all day long. The moisturizer is obviously penetrating because my legs don't look dry halfway through the day. My ears are free of closed and open comodones(blackheads and pimples and my back has become less irritated and itchy from dryness.

Where To Buy

Ulta, Sephora or facial clinics that carry the line such as Massage Retreats

Overall Assessment

Well I'm throwing out my loofa for good and recommending this to all my body waxing clients. This is the perfect solution to breakouts on the back and dry skin on the body. I am very pleased with the durability and would give it a 10 out of 10.

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Simple Murad Treatment for Teens

Simple Murad Treatment for Teens

This treatment is of one of the various facials that I do for teens. This particular one focuses on treating KP (Keratosis Pilaris), sebaceous filament(dirt, oil & debris filling pores), open comedones(blackheads) and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation(scarring from past breakouts).

Why get this treatment?

Estheticians can use products of a much higher potency so to treat problems aggressivly and the results are dramatic and instant.

During the treatment I used:

Murad Gentle Eye Makeup Remover

Murad Essential C Cleanser

Murad Hydrating Toner

Murad Prepping Solution

Murad Rapid Exfoliator Regular Strength

Murad Soothing Mask

Murad Massage Cream

Murad Essential C Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30

How this treatment works:

Problem #1: KP(Keratosis Pilaris) Rough little white bumps.)

Cause: Not enough exfoliation

Treatment: Keratosis Pilaris needs exfoliation and hydration. The glycolic acid in this treatment will exfoliate and leave a smooth, clean surface to absorb moisturizer. The hydrating toner is going to rehydrate the skin and soften. The Murad Essential C Moisture has phospholipids and conditioners which hydrate. It also contains ectoin which preserves hydration to optimize skin’s appearance and barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss.

Problem #2: Sabaceous Filament - Sebum and shed skin cells collect around hair follicles to produce tiny tubes called sebaceous filaments. sebaceous filaments are tiny and look like pinpricks. The sebum oxidizes when exposed to air and it appears a few shades darker then the skin. They typically appear only a few shades darker than surrounding skin.

Cause: Sebum builds up in pores over time. If not exfoliating properly or cleansing properly this happens usually in areas of the skin that produce more oil.

Treatment: Salicylic acid eats oil and cleans out the oil on the skin and in the pores. Whatever is not removed can be vibrated out with the ultra sonic blade.

Problem #2: Open Comedomes (blackheads - The same process that creates sebaceous filaments also causes blackheads. However, there's a major difference in degree. Blackheads are hardened sebum, dirt and debris and they create a plug in the follicle. They can stretch a follicle as they fill up and cause the pores to stay that way.)

Cause: Sebum build up, skin shedding into sebum. Dirt and debris sticks in the sebum and it hardens. Exfoliating would help prevent it.

Treatment: Glycolic is aggressive enough to break down the hardened plug. Whatever is not removed can be vibrated out with the ultra sonic blade.

Problem #3: Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (A darkening of the skin pigment due to increased amounts of melanin, usually occurs during the healing process after a breakout.

Cause: Sometimes the cells that contain melanin are damaged or over stimulated. When this happens, the affected cells may begin to produce too much melanin. Too much melanin causes darker spots or patches.

Treatment: The Murad Essential C Cleaner and the Essential C Moisture contain Vitamin C which is an antioxidant and works to brighten the skin's tint, but its value to skin pigmentation is its tyrosinase inhibitors. These inhibitors help prevent enzymes in your body from creating excessive amounts of melanin--your skin's pigment Glycolic acid will eliminate and reduce hyperpigmentation.

View The Video On This Treatment

Schedule A Treatment For Teens

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Moisturizers: Why Your Moisturizer Plays Such A Big Role In Skin Condition

This article is all about moisturizing. Learn all about moisturizers, what they do and why we need them.

Here’s what you’ll learn:

•         First, you need to know the science behind the skin, what our skin needs and why moisturizing is important.
•         The perfect moisturizer; what it should do and why.
•         Added Benefits that are now in moisturizers. Treat while moisturizing.
•         What moisturizer you should use for your skin type.
•         How to properly moisturize your skin.

Science of the Skin and Moisturizers

The skin is a complex organ with many layers. It’s actually the largest organ in our bodies. It’s designed to minimize moisture loss from the body while preventing foreign materials from entering. To accomplish these functions, the skin must have a protective covering of lipids, or oil-soluble molecules. If this function is disrupted, it results in trans epidermal water loss or TEWL. This is associated with a bunch of conditions such as dermatitis and other chronic diseases. Moisturizers can prevent and improve these conditions because they restore the skin and help create a barrier to prevent water loss.

This is why moisturizers usually contain some oil-soluble components and can be used to restore the skin to its natural condition. Most moisturizers use a mixture of oil and water soluble components called an emulsion.  

But oil and water don’t mix! So then you need a surfactant. A surfactant is a chemical that attracts both oil and water to mix them. A surfactant must have two parts, one that binds water and one that binds oil.

Example of a surfactant: One of the most common examples of a surfactant is dishwashing soap. It contains chemicals that bind both water and oil. When combined with water, the mixture can bind the greasy residue on our dishes. It pulls it off as the mixture runs over the dish. Water alone would just slide over the oil and wouldn’t be able to remove it from the dish.

Hydration

Moisturizing your face is not only an important part when taking care of your skin but keeping your body well hydrated is just as important.

Not drinking enough water can affect virtually every aspect of our health. Your skin carries out a ton of biochemical reactions. If there isn’t enough moisture then many of these reactions aren’t carried out properly, which causes your skin to look dry and dull.

Dehydration can also accelerate the aging process and dry skin is one of the biggest causes of wrinkles, so moisturizing your face will help combat these factors.

The Perfect Moisturizer

A combination of hydration, lipid replacement and protection is needed. You want to hydrate your skin, replace lipids and provide a protective barrier. Water alone won’t increase the moisture level because it would just evaporate off the skin. A protective lipid coating is also needed to prevent the loss of water. Our skin has a protective barrier but it needs help. Ideally, a product will partially protect the skin by supplementing the barrier. By partially protecting it your natural barrier still has to work and will continue to work even if it’s taken off. If you put on a completely occlusive product, your natural barrier will be disrupted and it won’t work when you take it off.

Some properties that you’ll find in moisturizers are humectants like glycerin and lactic acid that help attract and help retain moisture and emollients made from fatty acids that soften and smooth. These are often in moisturizers and occlusives (known as “barrier creams”), such as petrolatum, dimethicone or lanolin and  leave a film on the surface of the skin and seal in moisture. 

Most products contain a combination of humectants, emollients and occlusives, so it’s easier to choose a moisturizer based on your skin type.

Added Benefits

Not all skin moisturizers are made the same and they certainly don’t contain the same ingredients.

Always wear a moisturizer that contains a sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher during the day to protect your skin from sun damage.

The newest thing in moisturizers is liposomes. They’re little spheres of lipids. They look like little bubbles that can restore the lipid layer but also can carry active ingredients inside them introducing a whole new spectrum of ingredients. These ingredients are vast and can do all sorts of good things for our skin.

A Moisturizer for Every Skin Type

So what do we need based on our skin type? Each skin type needs a different type of moisturizer because each skin type has different needs.

Here’s what I suggest with every skin care selection. Don’t look for a certain product because this can be deceiving since manufacturers make claims that can’t be proven. Instead of looking for a product, look for ingredients.

Dry Skin – Dry skin is usually caused by an impaired barrier. The skin is dry because the barrier is not producing enough oil and it’s impaired. The barrier being impaired makes the person with dry skin susceptible to TEWL. So these people need a moisturizer with hydration, oil and they need a barrier cream or something to coat and protect.

Try to look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid (attracts water and locks it into the surface), fatty acids, Copper PCA (a powerful humectant that brings moisture from the atmosphere into skin), Glycerin (a highly effective humectant present in all natural lipids.  Attracts just the right amount of water to skin to maintain balance.  Forms a natural barrier that keeps moisture in and skin smooth), Lecithin (helps improve the skin's barrier function) and Shea butter.

Oily Skin – This type of skin has a barrier that is overactive. The barrier is producing an excess of the natural oils and because of that skin is oily and greasy. This can cause the follicles to get clogged with oil. Oil, debris and dead skin cells can get stuck together and clog pores and people with oily skin will then have breakouts because of it.

Many people think they have oily skin if they get a little shiny sometimes. You can label your skin oily if an hour after you wash it, it’s oily. If you start getting oily hours later, odds are you have combination skin.

So many people think the solution is simple, get rid of the oil. But it’s not that easy. You don’t want to strip away all of the oil because that’s what’s protecting your skin.  It’s a tough balance to find when most products geared towards oily skin are harsh and can strip and damage skin. What often happens when people try to get rid of the oil is that the skin starts producing more oil to make up for it.

People also think that they don’t need to moisturize if they have oily skin and that’s also not true. You need to moisturize in order to keep your skin balanced so it doesn’t try to over compensate and produce more oil.

Unfortunately, our skin types can’t be changed. They are genetic and can only be controlled. The trick to moisturizing oily skin is to control the oil. Oily skin obviously isn’t lacking in oil so you will need a moisturizer that is light and oil-free.  This skin type can really benefit from products that control oil. Look for ingredients like salicylic acid. In small amount this ingredient will eat oil and will control the oil. Warning: using anything over 1% salicylic on a daily basis can over process, so stick to safe levels.

Combination skin - This is a combination of 2 skin types. Most of these types are oily in the t-zone but normal or dry in other areas. This skin type needs to be balanced. This skin type needs an oil-free, light weight moisturizer that will balance the skin. Look for these ingredients: Lactic Acid and Amino Acids (provide lightweight hydration that helps keep skin in balance), Dimethicone (An oil-free, moisturizing ingredient that helps protect and condition skin and self-adjusts to absorb only where needed) and Water-Soluble Silicones (oil-free, noncomedogenic ingredients that replenish moisture,  prevent further moisture loss and self-adjust to skin’s needs, absorbing only where needed).

Sensitive skin – This skin type is really unique.  Sensitive skin can be related to impaired barrier function of the skin’s surface layers. Without this protection, skin becomes dry and easily irritated. Barrier function can be diminished through intrinsic ageing, sun exposure, climatic conditions and the use of skincare products that remove skin lipids (sebum) and cause irritation.

Sensitive skin types need a moisturizer that will help fortify the skin barrier function, contains no known irritants or sensitizing agents and are very mild. The perfect moisturizer would hydrate, moisturize and protect without irritating. Look for some of these ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid and Glycolipids (encourage the skin to attract and retain vital moisture), Lecithin (helps improve the skin's barrier function) and Chamomile Extract and Arnica (soothe and improve suppleness).

Steps to moisturizing

After you cleanse your face, you should immediately tone and moisturize. If you leave it too long after cleansing without doing this, the moisture can evaporate, taking your skin’s natural moisture with it. Apply the moisturizer to your entire face as well as your décolleté.

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Exfoliation: The key to smooth, healthy, radiant skin!

Exfoliation is an important step in every skincare routine. It removes the build-up of dead, damaged cells and stimulates the regeneration of new cells, improving the skin’s appearance, feel and texture. Since our outer layer of skin consists of 20-25 layers of these dead skin cells. Any treatments you do on your skin and your moisturizer can’t get through and often times your skin will feel rough and conditions like acne and KP (keratosis polaris) shows up. This looks like tiny white, rough bumps.

It’s important to know a little about skin cell production or at least the last stages to understand the importance of exfoliating. Skin cells are attached to each other on the top, bottom and sides by desmosomes. It’s kind of like glue that holds them together. As the cells move from the inner layers to the outer layers of your skin, enzymes break down that glue and the cells are ready to be sloughed off by the time they reach the top layer of skin.

Here’s some bad news. Younger skin is more efficient at this process of breaking down the intercellular cement.  As we age, the cement holding the cells together becomes denser, causing a build-up in the layers of cells. Cell sloughing becomes more difficult, resulting in skin that appears dull, thicker and less toned. Exfoliation is so important to the skin. Removing this build-up of dead, damaged cells stimulates the regeneration of new cells, improving the skin’s appearance, feel and texture.

There are different ways to exfoliate. There’s mechanical and chemical and everything in between.

Mechanical Exfoliation

Mechanical exfoliation uses either a tool (brush or other tool) or a product with exfoliating properties ( Corn Cob Meal, Rice Bran, Date Seed Powder, Oatmeal, etc.) that, depending on the amount of friction and how abrasive the product used is, loosens and reduces the outer layer of skin or  the corneocytes (dead skin cells). Do remember to be careful with this because excessive abrasion can result in skin irritation. I do not recommend the use of crushed fruit pits, shells or similar products that are very abrasive.





Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation uses a variety of means to achieve skin renewal.

Hydroxy Acids: Chemical exfoliation uses chemicals such as hydroxy acids (Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid).  Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) normalize cell turnover in the epidermis. This causes the formation of normal healthy skin, which includes a sloughing of the outer layer of skin (Stratum Corneum). This decreases dry scales on the skin’s surface and stimulates the cell cycle.

Both Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have additional benefits. Glycolic Acids has benefits such as breaking through deep blockages, thickening the dermis to lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and will eliminate and reduce hyperpigmentation and photo damage. Lactic Acid has benefits also and is better for sensitive and rosacea prone skin because it’s less irritating. Lactic acid inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that initiates the melanin production process which will protect against future hyperpigmentation. LA also increases hydration and plumps the skin.

Salicylic Acid, a beta hydroxy acid, differs from AHAs because it is attracted to oil, which enables it to penetrate sebaceous substances in the hair follicle and exfoliate the pores. Salicylic Acid significantly decreases the density of microcomedones (small impaction; the start of a pimple) because its comedolytic; which means it inhibits comedones by shedding the skin and eats the oil.  In addition, Salicylic Acid offers anti-inflammatory properties.

Retinol: In recent years, Retinol (Vitamin A) has been included in exfoliation because it does cause exfoliation directly. It’s not the Retinol that exfoliates the skin but when Vitamin A is introduced into the skin it comes in contact with special enzymes in the skin cells that convert the vitamin A into Retinoic Acid. Retinoic Acid is what communicates between cells, encouraging aging cells to continue the renewing process. This causes a continuous shedding of cells and renewal of cells. It’s not immediate like the AHA’s and ABA’s, it keeps working. Retinol has been shown to improve the visible signs of photo aging as well as normal aging when used on a daily basis.

Enzymes: Biological enzymes such as Papain and Bromelain exfoliate by basically eating that cement that’s holding the cells together. It doesn’t activate by PH like AHA and ABA’s do but is activated by water. It is limited as far as how much exfoliation it can do.

Other Means of Exfoliation

Other ingredients can be used to assist in exfoliation, including Rice Extract and Rice Bran. Rice seeds and bran have other benefits and can relieve, cleanse and soften the skin.

Rice Bran contains ten percent Phytic Acid which loosens cells, inhibits tyrosinase by blocking iron and copper which is used in the formation of melanin. In other words, it prevents hyperpigmentation. Rice bran also contains topherols or antioxidant Vitamin E that protects against free radicals.

Chemical exfoliation is, in my opinion, is the best form of exfoliation because we really need something a bit stronger then friction and abrasion to get through those 20-25 layers of dead skin cells. Also, you’re benefiting from the AHA’s and ABA’s extra benefits. Using an AHA or an ABA will not only exfoliate and result in improved skin texture but also will reduce fine lines, acne and hyperpigmentation. Chemical exfoliation can also get deep enough to break down that intercellular cement that has become thicker and harder to get rid of as we age.

Enough’s, Enough!

As with anything that’s good for us, it is possible to over-do it. Many people think that “if some is good, more is better”. Super-sizing it is a bad idea when it comes to exfoliation.

Too much exfoliation can result in skin that is more fragile, has less natural ability to protect from UV, is easily sensitized, heals more slowly and lacks in general structural fortitude. Parchment paper comes to mind.

Make sure that your exfoliation routine is following the products guidelines. I recommend a daily exfoliator that is gentle enough to use daily, such as superfine micro powders and precise dose leave-on serums containing micro particles of rice bran, phytic acid or salicylic acid or botanical extract combo’s.

I will be doing a product review of exfoliating products soon so keep your eye out for that.

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